Cure
Curing
Curing is time and temperature through the whole ink film. Touching the number for a split second isn’t enough, and a print that feels dry may not be cured at all.
In short
- Hold the whole film at cure temperature for the time on your ink’s TDS; thicker deposits need longer.
- Gelled is not cured. Plastisol can gel and feel dry anywhere from about 180–250°F depending on the ink (Davis 180–250°F, Wilflex 200–225°F, Lawson 220–230°F), well below cure. Check your ink’s TDS.
- Prove it with a wash test. A probe shows what the dryer is doing; an IR gun or stretch test isn’t proof.
In this guide
- 01Time and temperature
- 02Typical numbers
- 03Cure equipment
- 04Do you need a conveyor dryer?
- 05How to check a cure
- 06Flashing between colors
- 07Energy and safety notes
- 08Related problems
Sources for this guide (18)
- Wilflex (Avient), Ink curing tips (2020, PDF)
- Avient, Mapping your conveyor dryer (PDF)
- Davis International, FAQs
- Davis International, Common issues
- ScreenPrinting.com Help, How do you cure water-based ink?
- Lawson Screen & Digital, Curing plastisol inks
- ScreenPrinting.com Help, What is cure temp?
- ScreenPrinting.com Help, How do you cure plastisol with a flash dryer?
- ScreenPrinting.com Help, Why does ink crack in a stretch test?
- ScreenPrinting.com, 4 curing methods
- International Coatings, Curing ink with a heat gun
- International Coatings, How do I test to make sure my inks are properly cured?
- Screen Printing Magazine, Figuring out flash-curing parameters
- Screen Printing Magazine, Curing comes clean through wash testing
- ScreenPrinting.com Help, What do I need to start a shop?
- Lancer Group, STI direct print silicone ink system (PDF)
- Northwest Graphic, Silextreme silicone ink
- PIA/SPTF, Textile plastisol curing troubleshooting (PDF)
Ranges are starting points from these sources. When a source and your ink’s tech data sheet disagree, follow the tech data sheet.