Cure Temp Guide

These are common starting points. The technical data sheet for your exact ink always overrides them.

1 · Ink

Ink type Show in

Reference table (starting points)

Ink	Typical full cure	Flash goal	Notes
Plastisol (standard)	~260–330 °F (127–166 °C) by ink (sources differ), reached through the whole ink film. Check the ink’s TDS.	Gel: dry to the touch, not fully cured	Plastisol does not air dry; it must reach fusion temperature. Many standard inks list about 320 °F; follow the number on your ink’s TDS.
Plastisol (low-cure)	~250–300 °F (121–149 °C) by ink; many lines ~270–300 °F. Check the ink’s TDS.	Gel only	Made for heat-sensitive fabrics and to reduce dye migration on poly. Use the maker's exact number.
Water-based	Per the ink’s TDS. Many list ~320 °F (160 °C) for 2–3 min after the water has evaporated; some allow lower temps with longer dwell.	Partial dry (light flash) between colors	Needs the water driven off and curing heat, so dwell is usually longer than plastisol. Forced-air dryers help. Some inks use additives that change cure.
Discharge	Per the ink’s TDS. Typically ~320–350 °F (160–177 °C) for about 90 s–3 min to fully activate and cure.	Light flash	Works only on discharge-able (dye-reactive) cotton garments. Mix in activator per the maker's pot life. Ventilate the dryer area.

Measure the ink film temperature, not just the dryer setting: use a thermometer probe, temperature strips or a donut probe through the tunnel.
Do a stretch test on plastisol after the print cools: cracking suggests under-cure.
Do a wash test on a sample before running the order.
Heavier deposits, darker garments, airflow and belt speed all change how hot the ink actually gets.

Flash just until the ink is dry to the touch. Over-flashing can cause scorching, platen heat build-up and poor intercoat adhesion.
Platens warm up during a run, so flash times often get shorter as the job goes on.