Curing mistakes

Trusting an IR temp gun to prove cure

An IR gun reads surface heat, and light inks read high while dark inks read low. Avient gives examples like a gun reading 320°F when the ink was actually 285°F. Instead: profile the dryer with a probe or strips, and run wash tests. See Curing.

Calling a print cured because it’s dry

Plastisol can gel and feel dry from about 180–250°F (Davis; Lawson says 220–230°F), well below its cure temperature. Check your ink’s TDS. Instead: make sure the whole ink film holds cure temperature for long enough.

Running every ink at the same temperature

Ink lines cure at different temperatures, and low-cure inks are lower. Instead: follow the TDS for the exact ink you’re running.

Selling shirts cured with a heat gun or flash alone, untested

ICC says heat-gun curing is not recommended, and Lawson says flash curing is not recommended. Instead: if you must start with a flash, wash-test every new shirt and ink.

Guessing at a tacky flash

Ink feels tacky while it’s still hot, so a quick touch can mislead you. Instead: let the print cool and touch it again. Still tacky? It’s usually under-flashed, so add a little time. Suspect over-flashing only if the print looks glossy, the shirt shrinks, or it smokes.